FNATR P1S/X1C Ventilation System (External Vent & 5-Stage Filtration)

I previously made a DIY ventilation setup, but because I could not adjust the fan speed, the chamber temperature was not very stable. I switched to the Fnatr unit, and the adjustable airflow made the setup much easier to control.

For the sealing and connection part, I did not use the official method. I used my own magnetic quick-release setup instead. When I am not using the purifier, I can remove the printer��s duct, and I also use a plug to seal the purifier outlet. This makes the whole system cleaner and more convenient for daily use.

I bought this ventilation system and it works very well. One suggestion for a future version would be to add an in-chamber thermal sensor for the exhaust fan, so it can automatically turn on negative-pressure filtered ventilation once the chamber reaches a set temperature. That would help maintain warmth for printing while still managing fumes effectively. Ideally, after filtration, the exhaust could also be connected to a tube that vents outdoors instead of accumulating air indoors. Also, for coconut-shell charcoal or activated-carbon filter materials, please make sure to use non-acid-washed carbon.

This ventilation system works well, and the three-speed adjustment is useful for controlling the chamber temperature. The airflow is strong enough to make a noticeable difference, but the suction strength and noise level increase together as the fan speed goes up. I found that the highest setting can cool PETG too much and may cause some shrinkage, as shown in the photo. For PETG, I prefer using a lower speed to keep the chamber more stable while still getting ventilation.

After using it for a while, the effect was immediately noticeable. When printing ABS, there is basically no smell in the room. I kept the original filter installed, turned off the printer's chamber fan, and only used the external purifier. With the room at about 20'C, the chamber stayed around 42'C, which worked well for me.

One note on installation: the included rear connector did not fit my setup because I did not have enough space on either side of the printer. I found a magnetic version on MakerWorld that routes a 60 mm duct upward, and that matched my needs perfectly. To form proper negative pressure inside the chamber, I also recommend sealing the rear mainboard cooling opening. The poop chute can also be replaced with a sealed version from MakerWorld; otherwise, it is harder for the chamber to maintain negative pressure.

This is a great upgrade, but if you're trying to capture all the fumes...why leave the poop chute sit open? Extend the ventilation hood to cover both openings.